|JOHN MURRAY PUBLISHERS|
the observer Sun 25 January 2009
The prevalence of foods stuffed with unwholesome additives might seem a modern problem, but Swindled shows that the history of food adulteration is as long as it is disgusting. Compared with 19th-century staples such as sweets coloured with lead, contemporary horrors seem relatively benign. Bee Wilson's approach is measured and often very funny, but her major point is a serious one: the greater the amount of processing we allow our food to undergo, the greater the likelihood it will be adulterated in ways that can be extremely harmful. Swindled is compelling, but you might want to finish that milkshake before you pick it up.